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Just as Australia and New Zealand have been arguing over who created the pavlova, the jury is still out on where steak frites was born – since both Belgium and France stake their claims as the inventor. Whatever the answer, this seemingly easy bistro staple is not easy to get right, including the accompanying sauce or herbed butter. Historically, rump steak was the cut of choice, but entrecôte (also known as ribeye) and sirloin are more frequently used today. Likewise, the traditional creamy béarnaise sauce (made with clarified butter emulsified with egg yolks and herbs) is increasingly being replaced with lighter renditions. For the reviews, we ordered our steaks the way they should be: medium rare.