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It’s a delicate balance – ensuring thick rice noodles remain springy in a sweet, milky broth that doesn’t overwhelm with its hints of ginger, pepper or the smoky goodness of the claypot it’s cooked in. There’s also a dry version (this list features both), where thinner rice noodles are tossed in a hot wok before stewing in a broth until every strand is permeated with similar sweetness. The male crabs generally have flakier flesh and meatier claws, while female crabs are prized for their denser meat and orange orbs of creamy roe. If you are ordering this dish as part of a larger meal, allocate at least 1kg worth of crab for three people.