Toki by Hashida Sushi

Amid the placid, calm world of fine dining sushi restaurants in Singapore, there’s one that stands out for its charming exuberance. This is no small part due to colourful chef Kenjiro Hashida, a second generation Edomae-style sushi chef who has helmed Hashida Sushi at Mandarin Gallery since 2013.

After a short closure to reinvigorate the restaurant, the final flourish is Toki, an elegant space aptly named after time in Japanese. A dappled bamboo grove effect is achieved through clever lighting and layers of timber and wood panelling, with a bamboo ‘stage’ where chef Hashida plies his omakase offerings. This gourmet atelier seats about 14 persons in privacy, and is popular for small groups or private events. The counter table extends itself on one side, giving the chance for smaller groups of four persons to face each other for more convivial dining. 

Lunch omakase is priced from $80-250, while dinner runs $350-500. At our most recent winter omakase tasting, chef Hashida prepared an exquisite array of courses. Here are highlights of our meal.

A chilled Osaka-style beancurd arrives, in a thick, gelatinous broth stock jelly, topped with ikura and vegetable ‘caviar’.

The sashimi platter is a work of art. Chef Hashida starts by spraying an umami mist over the botan prawn, which he explains is to help the sashimi retain its sweetness and moisture after being sliced. Each item on this place plays a flavour role, from the white radish pressed with Sichuan pepper leaf, to yellow chrysanthemum flowers and freshly grated wasabi. We enjoy botan shrimp, water octopus, sea bream, and special seaweed that’s cooked and marinated.

Firm, clean-tasting buri is the first sushi. It’s from the largest species of yellowtail, often weighing above 50kg.  

Chef Hashida declares this flamed baby barracuda his favourite fish. The flesh is delicate and moist, with a smoky complement from the light char.

The intense flavours of uni and ikura will have you finishing up this petite bowl. 

A buttery eel from Chiba is given a brush of chef Hashida’s master sauce—a 135-year-old recipe handed down from his father.

Fatty, unctuous Japanese otoro served with a gentle seafood broth marks the end of the meal.

Throughout the meal, the jovial chef Hashida banters and teases his guests with aplomb. “Only two questions, no repeats,” he mock admonishes at one point. He explains that the omakase menu in Toki will be about 80 percent similar to the rest of Hashida Sushi, with the remaining comprising creative flourishes from him personally. There may also be a little surprise for Singapore. He says, “I hope to invite my father, chef Tokio Hashida, to Singapore in 2017 as a guest chef.” Mandarin Gallery, #04-16, 333A Orchard Road. Tel: 6733 2114