Opera legend Luciano Pavarotti once called Pangkor Laut “paradise on earth”, and it’s easy to see why. Surrounded by emerald waters and cloaked in rainforest, this private island retreat offers the kind of unspoiled beauty that feels like nature’s own aria.
Text: Eris Choo
It’s the perfect island afternoon: swaying palms, golden sands, sound of waves lapping against the shore. I am midway through lunch at the beachfront restaurant when someone unexpectedly joins me, adorned in a sleek black coat and a puff of white at the chest. With quiet confidence, he occupies the seat across mine, unbothered by my surprise.
My unexpected dining companion? An oriental pied hornbill, one of many who call Pangkor Laut island — located on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia — their home. Encounters like this, I soon learn, are not uncommon here. Pangkor Laut is home to a thriving population of hornbills, flying foxes, and long-tailed macaques, all living alongside guests with little distinction between “their” space and ours.
Rhythm of Nature
Pangkor Laut sits just off the Straits of Malacca, a private island of about 300 acres. Only a small fraction of it is given over to Pangkor Laut Resort, a five-star, bespoke luxury resort, while the rest remains rainforest, untouched and dense, right down to the shoreline.
Villas rise from hillside, cove, and shore, their dark wood structures blending seamlessly into the surroundings. My villa, a Tropical Hill Villa tucked on the hillslope, opens out onto a private balcony with sweeping views of the sea.
Newly refurbished, the space is understated rather than ostentatious, with polished wood floors, airy ceilings, and a cosy bed made up with crisp white linens. In the mornings, I take my coffee on the balcony, watching the sky shift from pale pink to gold as the sun climbs over the horizon. In the afternoons, lounging on the sunbed outside, the soundtrack is provided by birdsong.
For those who want greater seclusion, the resort offers The Estates on the north shore, eight expansive residences with one to four bedrooms, private pools, and dedicated butlers. Here, the atmosphere is less hotel and more private retreat, reminiscent of the old planter lifestyle of Malaya.
A Walk on the Wild Side
It’s one thing to admire the rainforest from a balcony, and another to step into it. Pangkor Laut Resort offers guided morning treks into the island’s heartlands, and on one such adventure with resident naturalist Fairuz, I come to understand just how alive this island is.
As we make our way through the resort grounds, we spot an artificial hollow where a family of hornbills have made a nest. The male hornbill stands guard protectively over the entrance, and we catch a glimpse of a smaller one peeking from behind, presumably the female. “Hornbills have unique casque markings which help us to identify them. They’re like fingerprints,” says Fairuz. “Many of these hornbills also mate for life.”
We also stop to watch flying foxes, the island’s resident fruit bats, hanging like ornaments from the branches of sea almond trees. With wingspans stretching to 60 centimetres, they look formidable, though their movements at dusk are surprisingly graceful.
Passing the Ocean Villas, perched on stilts above the water, we keep an eye out for monitor lizards that sometimes bask in the shallows beneath. A troop of macaques swings noisily through the trees above, chattering as they go. In certain seasons, Fairuz says, hawksbill and green turtles drift close to the island, feeding on jellyfish among the reefs, which are part of a coral regeneration project that are part of the resort’s sustainability efforts. It’s a reminder that this isn’t just a resort with wildlife nearby, but an ecosystem in which the resort plays only a small part.
Our trek ends at Emerald Bay, a crescent-shaped stretch of powdery sand and clear turquoise water. The water here is so clear that you can see the play of sunlight on the sand beneath, perfect for a refreshing dip after the hike.
For the adventurous souls who crave a challenge, Pangkor Laut Resort organises an annual Chapman’s Challenge, providing guests a unique way to experience its diverse terrain. Named after British soldier Frederick Spencer Chapman, who escaped Japanese forces during World War II by swimming across Emerald Bay, the challenge combines a run, a rainforest trek, and a swim across the bay itself.
Rest and Relaxation
Pangkor Laut may be celebrated for its beaches and rainforest, but its culinary offerings and relaxing facilities deserve equal mention. Spread across landscaped gardens and pavilions, the Spa Village offers treatments that draw inspiration from Malay, Chinese, Indian, Thai, and Balinese traditions. Enveloped in privacy, but with an open-air design that blurs the line between the interiors and nature, every session begins with the Bath House Ritual, a series of warm and cold pools designed to prepare the body for healing. Ayurvedic oil therapies, Japanese shiatsu, and Malay urut massage are among the smorgasbord of treatment options available.
The food at the resort tells its own story. Uncle Lim’s Kitchen, named after the chef who cooked here into his 80s, remains a guest favourite, serving Peranakan and Hock Chew dishes overlooking Royal Bay. At Feast Village, breakfast is a colourful spread of Asia-Pacific flavours, and on select evenings, the restaurant transforms into a bustling pasar malam (night market), where guests can watch as chefs whip up smoky satay and wok-fried noodles on the spot.
For barefoot dining, Chapman’s Bar on Emerald Bay is where to get fresh seafood and cocktails with your toes in the sand. One evening, I sit there watching the horizon fade from gold to violet, the hornbills retreating into the trees behind me. It’s a simple but perfect close to the day–and perhaps the clearest example of what makes Pangkor Laut so memorable.
Getting there
Fly to Ipoh or Kuala Lumpur, followed by a scenic drive to Marina Island Pangkor jetty and a 15-minute speedboat ride to the resort.
Best time to visit
December to April for calm seas and sunny days; May to September for fewer crowds and lush, rain-washed greenery.
Pavarotti in Paradise
In 1994, opera legend Luciano Pavarotti stepped onto Pangkor Laut’s shores for the first time, invited by his good friend YTL Hotels’ Tan Sri Dato’ Francis Yeoh to perform at the opening of the resort’s second phase. Moved by the island’s untouched beauty, Pavarotti declared it “paradise on earth”, later serenading an intimate audience, which included Malaysia’s then Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad, with O Paradiso. He would return several times, officiating the opening of the resort’s Spa Village and lending his name to the island’s grandest suite. Since 2023, the resort has hosted Opera in Paradise, which brings
together some of the world’s finest opera and classical musicians in a celebration where the
rhythms of man and nature meet in harmony.